|
|
Choose the right time to visit and you will experience the pervasive tranquillity of this alluring and incomparable place
If you feel like a moment of relaxation, away from the pressures of everyday life, there is nowhere better, in my view, than to stroll through the streets of Bellapais, and on to the peace and tranquillity of the Abbey itself. Choose a quiet time, avoiding the weekends and high season, if you can, when locals and tour companies alike tend to descend upon the picturesque spot like a flock of birds. I have been lucky enough, on several occasions, to find myself totally alone, meandering through the ancient site and believing that I hear the steps of the "white monks" scurrying along about their duties, or whispering urgently among the great eaves of the ancient Refectory.
Although there is a car park directly adjacent to Bellapais Abbey, it may be wise to park on the outskirts of the village and walk the few hundred metres in to the centre itself. Then you will be able to experience the ambience created by the narrow streets, and see what the village itself has to offer. Bellapais occupies a sloping natural terrace overlooking the sea, on the road inland and uphill from Ozanköy.
SYMPATHETIC RESTORATION
Walking through the narrow main street, up towards the Abbey itself, I get the feeling that Bellapais, as a village, has smartened itself up. Whilst obviously targeting the tourist trade, there has also been a concerted effort to provide a certain international air of quality, yet still retaining the ethnic atmosphere that Gerald Durrell found so appealing when he first settled here. During the mid-1950's, when the writer himself brought interest to the area, I would imagine that the buildings and facades were in a far more sorry state than they are today. Crumbling facades have been restored and cleaned; inviting restaurants, cafes, small exclusive hotels and holiday accommodation sit happily and unobtrusively among the tenanted buildings and family homes of old Bellapais.
As I walk the slow pace of a local in the summer heat, I feel Chameleon-like, tip-toeing up the dappled asphalt road, side-stepping into the shade as the traffic tries to negotiate its way through the single thoroughfares. Apart from the occasional engine noise, all is quiet.
ST. MARY OF THE MOUNTAIN
At the brow of the hill, at the north east of the village, the vista opens. The first astonishing glimpse of the Abbey can be seen, perched sentry-like on the cliff plateau, yet nestling in the lea of the mountains, like a babe in arms. It is as if nature itself is protecting something of beauty. I can well understand why the Abbey was originally founded and named as "St. Mary of the Mountain", just after 1200, by Augustinian Canons fleeing Palestine.
It was the Lusignan King Hugh III who endowed the Abbey, and succeeding Lusignan Kings who were its benefactors, and who lived there. For many years it was known as "Abbaye de la Pais" (Abbey of Peace), and the name was eventually corrupted by the Venetians to "De la Pais", which later became Bellapais.
GOTHIC AMBIENCE
Let us enter the Abbey grounds then, through the low gate (a small entrance fee is charged) and approach through the promenade of exotic palm trees. Immediately you are struck by the Gothic ambience of the place as you walk through the fourteenth century cloisters, watched overhead by the carved heads of both humans and gargoyles. The central courtyard dominates the scene, while heady and robust Cypress trees tower loftily into the sky above, casting their shadows on to the tended borders and crafted lawns below. The contrast of light and dark is startling. As is the silence. Travel up the outside stairway which leads to the upstairs parapet. There you will see the Abbey in its entirety, from the ruined Chapter house at the east of the cloister, onwards across to the no |
|
|
